We were tipped off by Jon on Kika who were a couple of days ahead of us that Isla Graciosa didnt have “entry port” facilities so we headed for Puerto Calero further south on Lanzarote, which proved to be an excellent marina, very clean and even had polished brass bollards and solid brass manhole covers – very posh! As we arrived the sun came up to a spectacular sunrise.
As we arrived Kika was leaving so we made tentative plans to meet up in Las Palmas where they intend to overhaul their engine and will be around for a few days.
Kika leaving Puerto Calero.
From here we hired a car and toured the Island climbing up over a volcanic plain which looked like one would imagine the surface of moon looked like, completely barren rock for mile after mile just as it was the day the rocks fell from the volcano.
At the end of this plain is Monte del Fuego (fire mountain) where we watched demonstrations of geysers and cooking over hot volcanic vents.
Some brave tourists went up the mountain by camel an experience we resisted although these had side by side seats rather than saddles which would have been cheating anyway. The view from the top was spectacular but not a sign of vegetation anywhere.
After a day of working on the boat doing jobs from our never ending list, this time with Sim making new control lines for our twin poles for downwind sailing while I anti-fouled the rudder of the Hydrovane which was missed in Cowes during refit. Before I left I imagined we would have lots of time on our hands but in fact we are kept busy with shopping, port entry procedures, cleaning the boat, sailing the boat, sleeping, cooking and eating, exploring and the books that I brought remain largely unread. Maybe over the Atlantic we will have more time. That night we treated ourselves to a steak and chips dinner, my first since leaving UK, which we washed down with a nice red wine – lovely jubbly!
On the subject of food by default our meals tend to be routine, something with either rice or pasta, being easy to cook in bulk, refrigerate and reheat so its nice to go ashore and eat things we don’t have on board. My attempts at fishing have been sporadic and unsuccessful so far with four traces lost and only one decent catch which got away as I was reeling in. It will be easier with more crew, the size of some fish would keep us going for months so I only intend to catch small to medium ones but haven’t worked out how to communicate this to the fish yet.
From Puerto Calero after saying goodbye to the helpful staff there we headed for Isla de Lobos on the north end of Fuertaventura where we intended to anchor. It proved to be a lovely anchorage with crystal clear waters and good shelter.
After a quiet night at anchor we headed for Puerto Castillo, a small fishing village on the east side of Fuertaventra, a sail of around 33 miles. It was Sunday when we arrived with no officials around so we picked a berth and left the following morning after a lazy start. I saw my first flying fish in nearly fifty years so we know were headed the right way. We anchored off a lovely little village called Ginijinamar where we swam and lazed around for the afternoon.
Next morning we set off past a very barren landscape for Morro Jable our last port in Fuertaventura and jumping off point for Gran Canaria and Las Palmas. We have managed to book a berth for a couple of nights so will meet up with Kika. We are moored alongside the harbour wall here which is great for shops and restaurants.
In the morning it will be an early start for the 60 mile crossing to Gran Canaria – the forecast is good with 15 knot winds from the North East which will be on our stern. Next post will be Gran Canaria. TTFN